BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II Part 4

Viola~ it's done! My masterpiece is finally ready!

Close up view.

Before and after.

BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4.

Trooper Begins

After a long waiting since July, finally it's touch down to Brunei. Stay tune for more updates.

Volks Dollfie Dream Tengen Toppa Gurren Lagann Yoko Littner outfit

When Volks release DDdy Yoko Littner, I'm still not really interested on her at that time. But now her value it's rise nearly USD$2,500 to get her. Luckily I still manage to get her outfit.

Here is everything. Let's suit up!

Tadaa~ Yoko with her big sniper gun!

I have no choice I need to put her on the floor, as my table is too limited space for her.

Some of you might notice, the body it's different from the original DDdy Yoko Littner. You may click here to understand different type of body. Originally DDdy Yoko Littner is using Dollfie Dream Dynamite (DDdy) body.

What is the different between DD and DDdy? Basically DDdy has bigger bust and hips. The reason I choose DD it's because majority of the clothes are fit DD body.

Didn't manage to do a lot of posing, should get the stand in the first place, at least can hold her up.

BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II Part 3

Experiment 2: Dry Brush, Take 2.

This time I'm not using the salt weathering technique as my skills are not that advanced yet. After removing the previous color, I repainted it again using same Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow.

As you can see on the left is the first layer of dry brushing, which came out quite close to the effect that I wanted. The picture on the right was taken after applying the second layer.

Applying the same method to the rest of the parts.

Experiment 3: Camo Weathering.

I used 3 Tamiya color XF-60 Dark Yellow, XF-57 Buff and XF-10 Flat Brown for the camo weathering. Since I already painted Tamiya XF-60 Dark Yellow, the next step was applying the Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown for the second color. Looks like a dinosaur egg XD

3rd color followed by Tamiya XF-57 Buff.

After I painted all 3 colors, I had do some color overlap touch up. Look at picture below, can you spot the difference?

Experiment 4: Weathering.

I'm not sure what is the correct term for this weathering technique, so please update me if you know. There are a few ways to do the same effect; the most common way is by using grey or silver with dry brush technique. The 2nd method involves using a small brush or tooth pick to dip some grey color, followed by gently applying it on the edge.

The 3rd method is the one that I used for my model. First, I need to apply a base color (dark or silver color up to the preference of the modeler) Mm.. in short, these are the steps I took:

Black(base color) --> Top coat (to protect the base color) --> Applying camo color or any color you wish to put --> Thinner + cotton buds (to remove the color on the edge). The results of my efforts are shown below:

This weathering technique requires thinner and a lot of cotton buds XD When you remove the color, please don't rub too hard or you might also remove the base color.

Another close up look on the kit.

Lastly applying water decal. Editing by Sylvia.

BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4.

BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II Part 2

Experiment 2: Dry Brush + Salt Weathering. Experiment failed..

The main idea of using salt weathering is to first put a primer colour (e.g. silver) before placing salt on the surface. Then, another layer of colour (e.g. green) is sprayed over it before allowing it to dry. Finally, the salt is removed (e.g. using toothbrush) and the result should look the the photo below.

The first step is propping my model parts on sticks before getting ready to spray. I used Tamiya spray TS-29 semi-gloss black for my base coat.

The next step is the application of salt. The bottle spray is used to spray water on the model kit (don't spray too much water on the kit as too much salt may stick on it or the salt may melt). A way of preventing this would be to hold the bottle about 30 - 50 cm away. Salt is then scattered on the kit and the kit is left to dry until all the water has evaporated.

In order to prevent the salt from falling off the kit when I use the dry brush technique later, I sprayed a layer of Tamiya spray TS-13 Clear over the kit. This was a major mistake as it caused the kit to have a glossy sheen and hence prevents me from using the dry brush technique as the surface is too glossy for the paint to stick. Picture shown below are after applying salt on the kit.

Let me now explain what dry brush technique I intend to use. The normal dry brush technique is to paint a silver colour over a dark base in order to create a slight enhancement effect. However, I am trying out a slightly different method to produce the effect as shown in the picture below.

However, instead of getting the effect I wanted in the picture above, this was what I ended up with.

To conclude, the salt effect works but the Tamiya spray TS-13 Clear should not be used with the dry-brush technique I used. Back to experimenting again...
Editing by Sylvia.

BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4.

Brunei Plamo Group - Plamo Competition x BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II Part 1

This will be my first time to enter a Gunpla competition, previously I didn't have a chance to participant on the EACON modeling competition.

Since is an open category, I gonna use BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II for my submission. During this project, will try some experiment that I haven't try before. P/S: This BB218 MS-06F Zaku II is a gift from Drinkin's Boys.

First, to detach the parts, I'm using guitar pick. Recommended to get two type of guitar pick, T and M (Thin and Medium).

Making extra panel line.

As for the shield, I follow the RG Zaku design.

Here is the result. If you look closely, you can spot my mistake on the shield, too careless. Over cut the lining XD

Experiment 1: Making hole.
Before I making hole on the parts, I have done all the marking, it's give me an idea where is the hole position.

Wala~ Before and after.

BB218 MS-06F ZAKU II: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4.